Since its birth from the ashes of Oddbins Calais operation, Calais Wine Superstore has remained my first call whenever shopping for wine in Calais because their prices are highly competitive for a range of modestly priced wines, some of which are very decent quality and a good majority of which are strong value for money. And it is so conveniently located. What limits my score to four stars is that there are not many mid-priced wines of genuinely better quality - wines that would encourage me to pay, say, £7 to £12 rather than £3 to £7. Two simple examples are red Rioja and white Burgundy, where those in the slightly more expensive range have almost always disappointed me over recent years. Examples on the positive side include Australian chardonnay, where the store has consistently offered a very good range at super prices, and some of the excellent French vins de pays from up-and-coming producers. The lack of mid-to-higher quality wines may well reflect the main demand from the clientele of the business, but does tend to limit my overall spend on the two or three visits I make each year - and, judging from my conversations with other customers and Calais shoppers, I may not be alone in that view.