“We first opened the Ryujin Bull Rider on a strange, windblown night in Topanga Canyon. The Santa Anas were kicking up, warm and electric, and H had grilled mackerel over binchotan, serving it alongside pickled green strawberries she’d found at a tiny stand up in Malibu. The combination was sharp, oily, and bright—and we needed a sake that could stand up to it without losing its balance.
Bull Rider did more than hold its own. It was immediately alive on the palate—bursting with energy, layers unfolding in quick succession. There’s a wildness to it, but it’s measured. The first impression was ripe melon and pear, but then came a sudden shift—almost a saline note, then a flicker of white pepper, then something earthy and quiet in the finish that we couldn’t quite pin down. We poured a second glass before we finished our first.
It’s devilishly complex, but never difficult. You don’t have to hunt for the beauty; it’s right there, meeting you halfway. We reordered two bottles the next morning. This one’s not going to sit on the shelf long.”
