Rick J
I am a Master Gardener in Phoenix, AZ, USA, and am writing this a full year (Feb, 2022) after I put up my heavy duty, white, 10' x 20' x 7' poly tunnel greenhouse (spend the extra money for the heavy duty frame!). All the parts were in the box on arrival, and it was easy to put up. I learned a lot and want to help those reading this suggestions to improve their experience. 1. Toss the little stakes and cord supplied as tie downs. Wind is an obvious problem with these, so I used 12, 18", #3 rebar ground anchors on the frame. Additionally, I crossed 2, 30', 2" nylon ratchet truck tie downs over the frame after putting on the cover, using 4 more rebar ground anchors. Further, I lined the outside bottom edges of the poly cover with brick pavers. It has not budged an inch and is rock solid. Lay out the frame so it is SQUARE. I got both triangle hypotenuses within a 1/4" by locking the inside bottom frame corners in with stakes before final anchoring in the ground. 2. I have had two minor cover splits, about 3" long. One on the top door panel where the Velcro frame attachment is and a second at the very bottom Velcro attachment on the same side. They are easily repaired using poly greenhouse repair tape. 3. A door zipper separated 6 months after finishing assembly. It was very easily repaired. Simply google how to repair a separated zipper - so simple. I now use a zipper lubricant for campers/hikers (Gear Aid) to clean and lube the zippers. 4. Set up. I built mine over a paver walkway and added brick pavers to the sides so I had hardscape flooring throughout - eliminates muddy feet. 5. Electrical. I also put in a utility panel made of pressure treated 2" wooden tree stakes and a piece of old OSB plywood. Mounted on this is an 8 plug electrical extension outlet connected to a 110/120v, 15 amp ground fault outlet a few feet away. This powers heaters, lights, a 24" box fan and the evaporative cooler. The lights are three strings of old, white, Christmas tree lights, looped over the frame before adding the cover. More than enough nighttime illumination. 6. Water. I ran a 1/2" PVC pipe connected to a hose bib (faucet) on the utility panel. It is connected to a hose bib at the house using a heavy duty contractors/farmers red rubber hose. When I need water, I simply turn it on at the house and use a splitter inside the greenhouse. Everything from Home Depot. 7. Heating/Cooling. I have two 1500 watt heaters which keep the greenhouse no lower than 50oF when outside is at freezing. Ventilation is the box fan. For summer cooling, I use an evaporative cooler sized for the structure. When it is 110 - 115oF in the summer, the greenhouse is high 90's, which my plants can handle. The cooler also provides plenty of ventilation, auto fills from the water supply and plugs in to the electrical outlet. 8. Shelving. I use 8', multi-tier black plastic StepMaster greenhouse/display shelving I had on hand - impervious to almost everything. 9. Maintenance. Assemble it to last and keep it clean inside and out. My early spring project is to remove everything and hose it clean. It will last a good while. I am quite pleased with Quictent's poly greenhouse and their customer service. I recommend the company and product. I researched the daylights out of home greenhouses and went with theirs because of size, price and reputation - and glad I did. Hope this helps. Rick.
2 years ago
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